My Adventures in Xania
Ellas- Where you pinas and gelas Greece- Where you are hungry and laugh (it all rhymes in Greek)
8.9.09 - 8.17.09
View
Greece
on aking16's travel map.
- *Warning: This entry is in ligo Greeklish and co-authored by Ashley and Grigoris **
I went with one week without Internet, so I need to play catch-up…
Last Sunday morning Takis, Marili, and I drove to Piraeus to catch the ferry to Xania, Crete. We walked around for about twenty minutes searching for a place to sit, but we were unsuccessful. So we just found a spot on the floor and camped out there for seven and half hours. It was actually rather painless (better than the flight over here). We played cards, watched movies, and slept (I was still recovering from jet lag).
When we arrived to the port in Xania, Grigoris was there on his bike to show us the way to his spiti. His apartment is right on the shore overlooking the Aegean Sea. We unloaded the autokinito and then headed to a little area called Platanias where we at a restaurantaki called Almira’s Family Restaurant. (I feel like we’re a family, so it was appropriate.) After receiving our orders of tzaziki (yogurt sauce), patates (potatoes fried in olive oil), loukanika (sausage), apaki (smoked pork), ensalata, ntakos (Greek brochette), stuffed mushrooms, saganaki (fried feta), and some kind of pizza with stuff on it, we ate in the Greek-style that I so deeply missed. We dove our own pirounis into the food and ate straight from the plates. Reaching over each other and using fingers are encouraged. With full stomachs, we drove back to the apartment and went to sleep.
The next morning, Takis, Grigoris, and I went to the supermarket together. (Grigoris is currently reading this as I write. He’s making fun of the details and asking if I want him to go get the receipt to list all of the items we bought. I told him that he’s Greek, and I would understand if he was too lazy to go get it. He’s still sitting here.) I love going grocery shopping in Europe because I like to compare the prices to America. It’s pretty much the opposite. Beer is dirt cheap and milk is expensive. After we went back and unloaded the groceries, the four of us went to a beach called Costa Costa in Agia Marina.
The Greeks are true beach bums, and they know how to truly relax at the beach. At Costa Costa (and like so many beaches in Greece), you select an umbrella and chairs, plop your stuff down, and order a frappe that entitles you to stay there for the rest of the day. With the classic European electronic pop music blaring through the speakers, we sipped on our frappes and enjoyed the sun. Occasionally Marili and I would go into the sea together. Unlike most of the beaches here, there were pretty strong waves, and my bottoms weren’t tight enough, so I didn’t last long. But for a while we laughed together and taught each other words in our languages. (kymata = waves) Takis and Grigoris played racket ball along with every other Greek man in the area. It’s played with wooden paddles in a tennis ball. It’s like paddle ball; the only rule being—don’t let the ball hit the ground.
[Grigoris einai enas malakas. Oh wait…according to Takis…he’s not.]
Later in the evening we went downtown to Xania and walked around the marina. Even after midnight there were shops and restaurants filled with people. We walked around for an hour and then sat down for drinks. I ordered a martini, and Marili told me it was “gunpowder” in Greek. When we got back to the spiti, Takis and Marili went straight to bed, and Grigoris and I stayed up until 5:30 giggling and listening to Takis snore. We discussed squirtles and squirrels.
I awoke around 12:30 in the afternoon, and we all got in the car to drive about an hour and half to another beach, Elafonisi. After resisting puking all over Takis car because he drove like a mad man around the curves, I climbed out of the car and followed the three to the beach. But the beach we wanted to go to was on a small island, we walked about fifteen yards through a small “straight.” The water was flowing from one side of the island to the other, so it was like crossing a small river. We spent the rest of the day there until the sun went down, and then went down the road to a small taverna in a small village called, Elos.
Because I’m the only American this time, we’ve been speaking Greek a lot more, which is good for my language skills. But as I mentioned earlier, it can get quite frustrating not always understanding what is going on. The three of them will be carrying on a conversation, and I’ll try to contribute but end up butting in with some irrelevant topic like the amount of olive trees in the fields or color of the sea. (Or when Takis is making some of his ridiculously silly jokes, I’ll lean over and ask Marili in Greek, “How do you do it?”, referring to her relationship with Takis. But instead I think I’m asking something a little bit more personal about their relationship in Greek, and she just smiles and chooses not to inform me.) I can always tell my comments are way off topic because they will all three force smiles, nod, and then continue with their discussion. Sometimes when Marili and I try to converse and fail, we just resort to laughing and singing “Poker Face” because we both understand the words. It has become the song of the trip.
But today I found myself being more in tune and understanding more. During our dinner in Elos, I would occasionally chime in with an actually relevant joke or two in Greek. Marili and I started to communicate a little better. She thought it was funny to teach me very difficult words in Greek, the funniest being “odondoglifdi,” toothpick. I kept ending up saying “odondo-Glyfada” (which is the area outside of Athens where Marili lives). On every restaurant table in Greece there are odondoglifidia, so we unwrapped a few and got some good pictures.
We drove back to the house, and Marili, Grigoris, and I played “B.S.” Marili won. I think it’s because she dates Takis, so she’s used to detecting B.S.
The next morning we woke up and went to a beach about two hours from Grigoris’ apartment. The normal routine seems to entail getting ready for the beach, cramming into the car, stopping to the get frappes (the unofficial national drink of Greece), driving for an hour or two, stopping at a kiosk (which are prevalent throughout the entire country), and then going to the beach. It sounds like a lot of work, but it’s the perfect combination of land and sea scenery. During the car ride, we are surrounded by fields of olive trees with rocky mountains in the distance and the occasional appearance of the sea. Sometimes we arrive to the beach, but I could still use an hour or more in the car.
Anyway, we arrived to this beach, Preveli, which is basically a strip of sand between the mouth of a small river (the only one I’ve ever seen in this country) and the sea. With both a sandy and rocky shore overlooking the sea with spotted islands in the distance, it’s a beautiful beach. The only catch is you have to literally walk down a mountain with hundreds of steps. So we climbed down in the hot Grecian sun. We lay out, explored some small coves among the rocks, and then rented a paddle boat to go up the river (which was actually more like stream). Along with several other tourists, we docked the boat and explored the small waterfalls up stream. For about an hour we waded in the water, climbed the rocks, and fell all over each other. Then after all that, we returned the boat, gathered our belongings, then hiked up the mountain. Marili and I walked at our own desired pace. We kopeles stick together.
On the way back, Marili and I were really hungry. We kept asking to stop to eat. Takis and Grigoris told us that we would stop to “drink coffee” and then eat dinner later in the evening. So after about a half hour, we finally stopped at a village for coffee. But after walking around, for some reason or another, Takis and Grigoris didn’t want to eat there. So we got in the car to find another place to “drink coffee.” We stopped in a small village to walk through an old castle/fort. We had fun running around, poking our heads through random holes in the walls, and taking ridiculous pictures. On the way back to the car, Marili and I committed grand auto theft and drove off with Takis’ car. Well, we didn’t even leave the parking lot, but we still got a rush from the illegality. When we let the boys back in the car, we thought, “Surely we’ll go get ‘coffee’ now.” But we ended up driving for another half and hour, and on top of that, getting lost. So Marili and I started joking, “Now we drive for about three hours, we ‘drink coffee,’ drive a little more, go home, faint from hunger, go out to dance, go to sleep, and in the morning THEN we eat.” During all of this, memories of my theios starving me last summer came rushing back. An hour later we found a beautiful restaurant on the sea with fresh seafood. We sipped on some ouzo and finally ate my absolute favorite, xtapodi…octopus.
The next morning I made a bunny’s nest (toast with a fried egg in the middle) for Marili. They had never had them before, so Takis watched attentively. When I was done, he made one for me. I’ll have to admit—it was pretty good. Then once again, we piled in the car and drove. This time we drove for about a half an hour to a port to catch a boat to a popular and incredible beach (there are only two ways to get to this beach—by boat or SUV, which are hard to come by in Europe). When we got to the port, the price and schedule didn’t agree with us. So we drove about an hour to Xania to rent a “Jeep,” the Greek general term for any SUV. We got an open Suziki Jeep and drove back toward the port to the beach, Balos. For an additional half hour, we curved up the side of the mountain on a dirt road with nothing but the sea below. After stopping to take picture of goats and a hedgehog, we finally made it to the top. From there, we had to walk another half hour down a very rocky path down the other side of the mountain. This mountain was twice as big as the day before. The beach connected the mountain and another small island with clear water on each side. One of the most beautiful beaches I’ve ever seen. Only three hours later, we packed our bags and walked back up the mountain in flop flops. Now I can consider myself a true Mountaineer.
On the way back from the beach, we stopped at a restaurant/pool on the beach called Nero-Mylos. There we “drank coffee” and swam. On the way back to car, once again, Marili and I ran ahead, but this time I drove. At the boys jumped on the back and I started to drive around the parking lot, but then I convinced them to get in and to let me drive. They had been saying that they can’t imagine me driving even in America. They had also been complaining about women drivers. I had told them unlike most Americas, I have a manual. And unlike most women, I can drive. So with the sun setting on the sea, I drove the old beat-up Greek Jeep along the coast back to the spiti tou Grigori.
It would have been the perfect ending to a perfect day, but we still had more perfection to complete. While the boys returned the Jeep, Marili and I rushed around in the apartment to get ready for dinner. Takis and Grigoris came back, and we went to downtown Xania to eat at a restaurant where we had reservations. We ate a wonderful meal with Greek dishes I had never had before. It was a lovely dinner, and then we went dancing at a club right on the beach called Mambo.
We did a lot more, but it’s late and I’m tired. Tomorrow Grigoris and I are going to “the center” of Athens to go shopping while Takis and Marili work. Later we’re all going to the beach. Grigoris may also take me to various American schools in Athens to start looking for a job for next year!
Kalinixta.
Posted by aking16 8.17.09 15:36 Archived in Greece Tagged family_travel Comments (0)

